Before Jonathan Anderson started producing his in-your-face de-gender, mood-driven “menswear” in 2008 — the “shared wardrobe” concept that ironically led to him being practically persuaded by his fans to expand to in-your-face de — mood-driven “women’s clothing” a few years later — he had plans to become an actor. That plan changed during an audition for Juillard in New York, where he performed a piece from the ’90s in-your-face play. The pitchfork Disney by Philip Ridley. “I remember doing it and thinking, ‘I don’t know why I’m doing this,'” he told British Vogue in 2013.
Almost a decade later The pitchfork Disney, which he recently re-read, was revived by Anderson as a central element in this Milan’s first live bow. Anderson said afterwards that he was moved by “the shock of the theatre” the play represented (some audiences fainted at its 1991 premiere) to form a collection that will test our perception of dress and modernity. suggested. The BMX handlebars, shattered skate decks and CDs were there to remind us of the intrinsic evanescence of modernity and its inevitable descent into anachronism. Anderson tried to add “canned food” to this category of faded fads as he spoke to the Italian press, but these pieces seemed more like witty acts of portable assembly. There was definitely a brutality in the project. The embedded barcodes made consumption challenging both the goal and the means of engagement.
“Fashion is a very modern device,” he said. “But it’s not a modern act.” To underline the illusion of modernity, he cast Rembrandt as the protagonist in his fashion play through intarsia reproductions on knitwear and prints on sneakers with the artist’s suspicious etching, Self-portrait in a cap, wide-eyed and open-mouthedfrom 1630. The nearly 400-year-old selfie highlighted that as technology upgrades, the way we use it remains fairly constant.
All of these devices—along with industrial gloves, a stock photo of an apple-eating child, and hardware store door hinges—were placed within or next to the boundary of generic contemporary clothing canons. This produced a “have your cake and eat it” result: you could wear Anderson-issued versions of 2023 uniform, and by those in-your-face interventions incorporated into it, you simultaneously indicate that you understood that the story was entirely contingent — just a wearable moment in time.